PATINA’S PReferred Practices

Pretty much any Airstream can be restored. However, we look for the best start-point. Our top priority is the exterior—after all, it’s in our name. We are looking for beautiful specimens, where none of the shell aluminum panels need to be replaced. We’re okay with certain beauty marks (small dents, discoloration, etc), but prefer a shell we don’t have to touch; so that aside from new lighting and components, when seen cruising down the road, it’s like it was never restored! We pay special attention to the front and rear “cones”, the curved overlapping panels. The rest of the exterior panels can be replaced, the only replacements for the conical panels come from donor Airstreams… We’d rather avoid that!

We also prefer to keep the original frame if possible. Believe it or not, many of the frames from the early 60s and older are in fantastic condition. We sand them down and repaint them with a rust-inhibiting coating, after making any structural repairs, reinforcements, or alterations. Building a new frame is not a big deal, but… where it makes sense, we prefer to keep the original integrity and soul of the Airstream in-tact.

Windows are not a real concern, but we do like to see that attempts were made over the years to keep them in-tact. We generally find that Airstreams that are sourced with all the windows, have frames in better condition. The more signs of care over the years, the better… It means the Airstream as a start-point will likely be in overall better condition, making for a better end-result.

We prefer to keep the original frame if possible. Believe it or not, many of the frames from the early 60s and older are in fantastic condition, many we’ve found just have minimal surface rust. We sand them down and repaint them with a rust-inhibiting coating, after making any structural repairs, reinforcements, or alterations. Building a new frame is not a big deal, but… where it makes sense, we prefer to keep the original integrity and soul of the Airstream in-tact.

New axles and hubs are a standard option here at Patina. We install custom ordered Dexter/UFP adjustable torsion axles with new hubs and electric brakes.

For full-restorations, we always replace the entire subfloor. Some folks will replace the middle, or “the bad parts” and try to get away with not lifting the shell. We don’t. We also will NEVER use OSB like many others do.

Subfloors are an area of great interest and debate amongst Airstream enthusiasts & restorers. Up until recently, Airstream always used wood, specifically having best results with a tongue-in-groove plywood… For over 90 years this was the proven, industry standard, go-to solution. Airstream today has moved to a composite, seamless subfloor. We will see how they hold up, but on paper it solves a lot of the “issues” with wood, and is superior than the aftermarket alternative, Coosa board. Namely, Airstream’s new TransCore subfloors feature wood-like screw retention, are waterproof, lightweight, and seamless.

Unforunately, TransCore is not available directly or indirectly to consumers, so it’s not an option for us.

However, just as Airstream determined over years of careful analysis, we’ve also determined that a waterproofed tongue-in-groove plywood is the superior restoration option.

Coosa, while being water proof and having great reviews, is very costly and more time-intensive to work with. It doesn’t hold screws, it still has seams, it’s not lightweight, etc.

Instead, we focus on making sure water doesn’t get to the subfloor. With careful seam-sealing inside and out, and using best practices and products, we look to make the subfloor debate a non-issue. We are constantly amazed at the good condition of the 60+ year old subfloors we replace, marveling that many of them could be re-used.

So we’re confident in reassuring our clients that their new subfloor should easily go that long again.

One practice that sets Patina apart is that we make closed-cell spray foam insulation our standard option.

Closed-cell spray foam boasts easily the highest r-value of any RV insulation options, at r-7 per inch. With only 2” of interior wall space to insulate, this is a big deal. It’s also an extremely effective acoustic insulator. It’s waterproof, bug proof, critter-resistant, it won’t harbor mold and mildew, it’s fire resistant, and it structurally reinforces the Airstream.

So why are we the only ones to offer it standard?

Spray-foaming is a highly involved, intensive process. From prep to application, to final shaping and clean up, it’s time consuming and expensive. There are also other rumors which we have found to not be true… such as that “it can cause bulging in the aluminum as it expands”. We’ve never seen this happen. It’s also claimed that “future repairs will be harder because the spray foam is difficult to remove.” While spray foam does have excellent adhesion to the aluminum, this is a non-issue… It can be removed.

Overall, despite the higher cost and additional skilled labor required, we think it’s worth it. With closed-cell spray foam, your Airstream is stronger, quieter, less prone to leaks, and of course, much more energy efficient.

Beyond that, we look at the overall insulation of an Airstream as a system, it doesn’t stop at the walls. We insulate the structural aluminum ribs from direct contact with the interior skin… Aluminum is a great conductor, and by breaking this interior-exterior connection, overall climate is much easier to control. We also offer insulation of the backside of the interior skins. We also recommend a cork-underlayment under our flooring. We consider window treatments to be an integral part of our insulation system, recommending cellular shades. Then, of course, we go with Foamular NGX pink foam boards suspended under the subfloor… Suspended so the subfloor can “breathe”.

Overall, we boast “the best insulated Airstreams on the market!”

We replace all of the Airstream’s electrical wiring as a mandatory practice. We follow the most stringent safety guidelines in doing so, such as installing new insulating bushings at every rib/aluminum pass-through.

We install the wiring on top of the closed-cell spray foam, so that it is accessible in the future.

Another standard practice that sets us apart is our commitment to the original aluminum used in the Airstream.

Many of our contemporaries opt to replace all of the orignal interior skins with either new aluminum or other, inferior options.

There are some valid reasons for using new aluminum… Such as not having to clean the old aluminum, getting a fresh painting surface & not dealing with the original lead-based paints in some of the older models, and not having all of the original holes to deal with.

But we strongly advise AGAINST a popular way of replacing interior skins, that being diagonally to the original length-wise orientation. Aluminum sheet metal behaves differently based on its orientation and curvature. While it’s easier to work with smaller pieces, vs the long length-wise original design, you have to realize the interior skins are an integral part of the structural integrity of the Airstream. The curve down the length of the original pieces adds tons of structural strength and ridgidity. As an example of this, try arching a piece of sheet metal, and then bending it diagonally to the arch, very difficult. Without that arch, it’s floppy. Many people discard the original Airstream engineering in favor of easier, faster methods. We don’t.

We also won’t use wood or fiber reinforced polymer panels, for these same reasons.

We prefer to keep the original aluminum skins when possible, because it transfers an immutable degree of character and charm. We once observed a gentleman bring in his father’s old Airstream for a full restoration at a different shop. By the time he left, the only thing original to his dad’s heirloom were the front and rear exterior cones. This is NOT us. We want as much of the original soul as can be preserved, even if that does mean lumps, bumps, and so forth.

We do extensively clean them, straighten them out, prep, and paint them.

Besides, this is the most conscientious method. While the original skins could be recycled, we’d wager most of them end up in the landfill—what a waste!

We are constantly researching options for every aspect of Airstream design, weighing and comparing everything that has been done, and perhaps not tried yet.

Overall, we have settled on Marmoleum sheet flooring as being the best choice for Airstreams. It’s not cheap, but it’s definitely superior to the popular alternatives.

This is very specific for several reasons:

• Marmoleum sheet is made of natural materials and does not off-gas awful fumes & chemicals like a vinyl sheet flooring does.

• We have found that any type of click & place or adhesive “wood” or tiled floor will not hold up to the extreme motion and temperature fluctuations an Airstream endures constantly. We constantly see shifted, gapped, and warped flooring when quick or cheap options are pursued.

• Marmoleum sheet is available in a variety of beautiful colors and patterns, and is very luxurious underfoot.

We also recommend a cork underlayment for a softer feel underfoot as well as the insulation benefits.

Part of our attraction to pre-1966 Airstreams is the ability to easily replace panels with tempered glass available at any local glass shop. As such, it’s generally a standard practice at Patina to install all new tempered glass windows, along with the appropriate seals and gaskets. All of our Airstream’s windows are restored to full operating condition, with refurbished or replaced lifting hardware and components.

A drawback to vintage Airstream windows is that they are single paned, and therefore not very insulating. We offer factory tinted windows and insulating cellular shades as standard options to mitigate this.

Here at Patina we offer full lithium systems as standard. From smart lithium batteries, to intelligent pure-sine wave inverter chargers, we make the system as intuitive as possible… You can manage it from your smart phone!

Our clients can choose between 30 and 50 amps, and 12v or 48v systems.

We also offer solar packages as a standard option.

While every client may be interested in changing things up, and we’re totally down for it, we generally allow the Airstream to dictate interior layout. By this we mean the locations of the windows determine exact placement of bulkhead walls, the shower, etc.

Over all we’ve found the rear bedroom with a luxurious residential style queen mattress, a side bathroom with shower, open kitchen, and open living room to be the most spacious and popular option.

People are amazed at two things… One, how much MORE spacious our vintage Airstreams feel than the much bigger modern ones. And two, how you can take a standing shower in our side bath even being up to 6’3”!

We believe we strike the best balance between “spaciousness” and storage.

We are committed to following industry’s best plumbing practices.

We install only PEX, which is much more durable and freeze resistant than PVC, and install HepVo waterless waste valves in lieu of p-traps.
We fit as much fresh, grey, and black water storage as is reasonably possible, and have sourced the best tanks for each of those roles. We insulate our tanks, install tank level monitoring systems, and place heating systems on the grey tank where applicable.

We install full Shurflo pump systems, including the pump, silencing kits, accumulator, and strainers.

We strategically place our tank drains where you’ll most likely want them at campgrounds, and use premium Valterra valves.

While we generally embrace bringing residential elements into most aspects of our Airstream interiors, making them feel less like an RV and more like a home, we have strict requirements for our showers.

They must be fail-proof. We see so many well-intentioned DIYers and other reputable Airstream shops going with grout base & tiled shower pans… They say an RV travelling down the road is experiencing the equivalent to a major earthquake. Any RV shower system relying on grout and tiles for waterproofing will eventually fail. Building a wooden box and using RedGard won’t be enough.

Our preferred practice utilizes a molded acrylic shower pan with slope and drain built in, and fiber reinforced polymer walls that overlap it. You could still add tiles, though at that point you’re sacrificing precious space for looks… A choice a client can make. We opt for a teak-shower mat over the acrylic floor pan.

This system is as fail-proof as it can get, and you can enjoy years of use without the worry of seen or unseen leaks.

The obvious choice for counter tops in a luxury Airstream is solid-surface. Solid surface is a resin-based material that is made to closely resemble a wide variety of natural stone options. But unlike natural stone, it is light weight and flexible. You won’t have to worry about the excessive weight or cracking of quartz, marble, or granite, but you get the same residential look! You also don’t have to worry about the many problems associated with wood or butcher block counter-tops, like warping, splitting, discoloration and surface damage. If you scratch your solid-surface countertop, you simply buff it out with a Scotchbrite pad!

Our Airstream cabinetry is always built in-house, custom to each Airstream, using genuine baltic birch plywood. Like the counter tops, baltic birch is not a cheap option, but we believe it is the right option for the long term. It handles temperature and humidity fluctuations far better than most mainstream alternatives… No mdf or particle board used in our builds!

For the faces we can either paint or stain baltic birch, or choose from a variety of real-wood veneered plywoods to achieve your dream, luxury finish.

We take great pride in manufacturing all of our upholstery in-house. We choose the best, American made foams and fillers, and choose only the most durable & luxurious upholstery fabrics. Our cushions are designed to be easily cleaned with premium zippers making them removable.

All of our lighting is energy efficient 12v LED.
We can repurpose original lighting, source new lighting, or work with our clients to choose the perfect lighting options for their build.

We can work with our client to select plumbing fixtures that suit their build, but we always look for water conserving options… For boondocking, it just makes sense!

We are happy to put together full camp-ready accessory kits on behalf of our clients, from leveling blocks to sewage hoses, we can have everything you’d need to camp with your new trailer on the way home!